Never mind the colorful five-layer cake flaunting lit sparklers on Bon Appétit’s December cover, which reads: “Looking forward to a joyful and bright New Year.” Indeed, that’s a yearning wish on so many levels.
Also, let’s leave it to those in print publishing to applaud the magazine’s jacket, which now sports a grainier, more luxurious feel. I’m betting everyday readers will barely notice the upgrade.
What stands out most in this special holiday issue, however, is the ethnically diverse content spanning across most of its 114 pages. The change from often-regular slants on French, Italian and Anglo-type food articles to culinary representations by women and men of color seemingly happened overnight.
Actually it did, thanks to the renewed editorial direction of guest editor, Marcus Samuelsson, and newly appointed editor-in-chief, Dawn Davis.
Both are Black and experts in their fields. Samuelsson is a lauded chef/restaurateur and an established fixture on Food Network shows; and Davis was a Wall Street bank analyst who became an ambitious book publisher at Simon & Schuster.
She fills the shoes of fallen editor-in-chief, Adam Rapoport, whose stacked allegations of toxic and discriminatory behavior at the magazine led to his resignation this summer. Indeed, there is much damage control and reprogramming occurring inside the 64-year-old magazine, which is owned by Condé Nast and continues developing a strong test-kitchen video presence on Instagram.
With a refreshed and more diversified staff now in place, readers can expect a kaleidoscopic look into the foods and eating customs of under-represented cultures, whether they be from within their own neighborhoods or oceans away.
Davis, who carries experience in food journalism and has acquired cookbooks in her publishing career, promises dramatic inclusiveness. And we see it already, per the features and recipes in the December issue by Samuelsson, Jewish baker Zach Polani, Venezuelan chef Claudia V. Martinez, and more.
In addition, Kwanzaa is aptly recognized through a plethora of enticing dishes inspired by countries throughout Africa, the Middle East and Europe.
Looks like they are finally heading in the right direction after having been stalled for awhile.